compass carte blanche: genevieve on the road with no set itinerary

Click here for my new blog, Raising Isela... Green.

2010-04-03T09:04:00.003+07:00

Travel Blog Goodbye

2010-03-01T22:31:00.005+07:00

Just in case you didn't suspect it already, and despite promises to the contrary in my last post from...how long ago was that?...I am heretofore retiring this blog. However, much to your relief (or consternation) I will soon have a new one up and running and ready to contain all of my musings about motherhood, family life, and yes, even travel, albeit of a different sort. Making this blog

Long Overdue Update

2009-05-29T04:28:00.002+07:00

I still haven't posted photos from Ireland and Scotland from the trip I took almost a year ago and here I am such a short time later living a very different life than I was as an aspiring perma-transient. I certainly wasn't looking but to my great fortune somehow managed to reconnect with Tom, who tutored me in math way back in high school. We began writing while I was in Asia and, after I

Humanitarian Aid First, Political Opportunity Second

2008-05-08T02:17:00.001+07:00

Eric Szmanda and Jorja Fox from "CSI"Reveal Regime's Modern-Day Slavery to the World Today is the 7th day in a row we have released a video on our website and at www.burmaitcantwait.org explaining to the world the Burmese military regime's horrific treatment of their own people.

Latest from U.S. Campaign for Burma

2008-05-08T00:30:00.009+07:00

Tell the UN Secretary General Now:United Nations Must Order Aid Be Allowed Inside Burma We are writing to ask you to send a message to the UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon today urging him to take action to ensure that international aid reaches the people of Burma. So far, the Burmese military regime has only let in a trickle of international humanitarian aid. We understand that 35 disaster

Latest Email from U.S. Campaign for Burma

2008-05-06T23:54:00.001+07:00

Cyclone Update and Why Burma Needs a Million Supporters Dear friends, Many, many thanks to the hundreds of supporters that have donated money to help victims of the cyclone in Burma. Sadly, news reports are indicating that the military regime is hampering relief efforts. The

Please Donate!

2008-05-06T22:27:00.005+07:00

I still haven't heard from any of my friends in Myanmar. Thankfully, most of them live further north in the country and, unless they were visiting Yangon, should be ok. Tonight, I'm going to try to call the school in Mandalay where Ashley works. If anyone knows anything about Horizon, please let me know. I hope that Min Min wasn't in Yangon due to his mother's hospitalization. I'm slowly

Min Min's Paintings - All are for Sale

2008-05-06T06:45:00.002+07:00

Myanmar Cyclone

2008-05-06T04:28:00.007+07:00

I'm heart broken for the beautiful and kind but dreadfully poor and oppressed people of Yangon and the surrounding areas who have been devastated by cyclone Nargis. The death count is now estimated at 10,000 and, in response, the military junta has done little but make a delayed request for international aid. Not only were they negligent in giving warnings, as I understand it, the military

The Best of Five Months

2008-05-05T08:00:00.000+07:00

Naturally, I’d read that I shouldn’t discuss politics with the locals because, although they are frequently willing, they can be persecuted for doing so after foreigners happily depart and head back to the comfort of our cushy western lifestyles. I determined to continue to cultivate the art of keeping my mouth shut, something I’ve been attempting to teach myself for most of my life. It wasn’t

Meeting Min Min

2008-05-05T07:30:00.001+07:00

I met Min Min on a trishaw. He wasn’t driving the trishaw that was transporting me but arrived just in time to help his friend who was. I never learned the name of the trishaw driver, who looked about 14, but surmised that he was new to the job and had bitten off more than he could chew when he agreed to take me from the boat landing in Nyaung U, through Old Bagan, and all the way to my hotel

Brief Mandalay Journal

2008-05-05T07:00:00.002+07:00

Written Friday, March 7Due primarily to US-imposed sanctions, there are no credit card companies in Myanmar and it’s impossible to get money except at one Yangon hotel that charges 7%. Even 7% sounds pretty good when you’re down to your last $75. I’m nowhere near Yangon at the moment as I’m on a previously booked boat trip down the Ayeyarwady River from Mandalay to Bagan. Rewinding… the day I

And the Lessons Keep Coming

2008-05-05T05:20:00.000+07:00

Written Friday, March 7 I left the Celta compound the day the course ended and took the sleeper bus back to Bangkok. Ood – the songthaew driver who brought me from Chiang Mai to the school the day before classes began and who, having found the school, began taking the free English courses the very next day – delivered Ashley and me to the bus station where we had a difficult time saying goodbye

this trip isn't over

2008-04-06T21:12:00.018+07:00

well, i'm back in colorado for a bit to attend to a family matter and, as much as i miss asia (sigh), it's fantastic to see my dog (who is glued to me as much as ever), family, and friends - including emmy, my friend juleanne's beautiful new adopted baby from china - and to catch up on sleep. i've been home just over a week and the jet lag has been brutal. having only been able to form

a few photos from Bhutan, pre-paro Festival (those photos are to come)

2008-03-27T02:56:00.013+07:00

ok, just a few more...still Myanmar...

2008-03-27T02:08:00.009+07:00

a few snapshots from myanmar...

2008-03-16T19:19:00.021+07:00

More than Alive

2008-03-13T19:44:00.002+07:00

I'm not going to write much about Myanmar here since my blog isn't restricted but I wanted my many readers (oh ok, five or six) to know that I'm still drawing breath. This is the first time I've been able to access email since I arrived in Yangon and I've since been to Mandalay, Bagan, and Inle Lake. I will say one thing... I'll never be the same after visiting this country. It has forever

Released!

2008-03-03T10:05:00.000+07:00

I left the Celta compound the day the course ended and took the sleeper bus back to Bangkok. Ood – the sonthaew driver who brought me to the school the day classes began and who, having found the school, began taking the free English courses that day - delivered Ashley and me to the bus station where we had a difficult time saying goodbye to him. We’d been so devoted to his progress throughout

Bhutan, Sikkim, West Bengal Trip

2008-02-26T15:13:00.004+07:00

Here's the route. I have until Thursday to decide whether I want to go off on my own after Bhutan or stay with the group for the rest of the tour. All this happens after Myanmar mind you but I'm finding it increasingly necessary to plan ahead. I really need to arrange everything all the way to Ireland, where I'll be in June. Tentatively: Myanmar, Bhutan, India, Romania, Hungary, Austria,

If Only

2008-02-25T13:56:00.007+07:00

I absolutely Give Dennis Kucinich His Due, why doesn't everyone? Oh, I remember, it's not about integrity.

Pics from Home

2008-02-24T23:57:00.009+07:00

Just a few pics of some of my friends from Colorado. We all used to work together but they've since moved to another health care company where my aunt also just began work (it's a long story). Thanks for taking pics Lori and thanks to all of you for making my day here in this temporary prison! See you in Bali!Miss Jackie, who just got her passport!Emily looking gorgeous as always.My favorite

Captivity, that's what this is.

2008-02-24T07:08:00.010+07:00

I've been self-soothing through the finalization of most of the details for my upcoming trips to Myanmar and Bhutan and it hasn't been easy in either case. I'm leaving the CELTA compound (you think I jest) first thing Saturday morning to head to Bangkok for the weekend. I'll then board a flight to Yangon, which I've already booked, on the morning of the 3rd. The only problem is that, although

Digging deep to write this one.

2008-02-19T08:12:00.008+07:00

Apologies for the post famine of late. I'm sure it's difficult to believe but being out here in the middle of nowhere taking a teaching course isn't going to win me any blogging awards.Ok ok, no more excuses. I did snap a few lackluster photos that I'll tantalize you with before too long. Just stick with me until I upload from Bhutan and I'm certain this dry spell will be long

Tesco Lotus

2008-02-13T13:20:00.004+07:00

I have no other choice but to shop there this month but can anyone tell me what makes Tesco Lotus any different from Walmart? I wouldn't be caught dead in a Walmart back home ("High Cost of Low Price" and other unavoidable info) and here I am shopping at the Asian version which is a lot closer to most of the sweat shops that are part of the reason I don't shop at Walmart.

I heart teaching.

2008-02-12T16:56:00.001+07:00

Isn't it amazing how therapeutic it is simply to get your mind off of yourself? Surprisingly, I've found that teaching is an outstanding medium in which it’s natural, I’d even say automatic, for me to do that. I had thought I'd be anxious about being in front of a group of 10-12 adult students and six observers but what I've found is that I'm so naturally and genuinely focused on helping the

I am Wind, You are Fire

2008-02-09T19:46:00.000+07:00

O you who've gone on pilgrimage - where are you, where, oh where?Here, here is the Beloved! Oh come now, come, oh come!Your friend, he is your neighbor, he is next to your wall -You, erring in the desert - what air of love is this?If you'd see the Beloved's form without any form -You are the house, the master, You are the Kaaba, you! . . .Where is a bunch of roses

Welcome to the Year of the Rat!

2008-02-08T08:53:00.000+07:00

I'm settled at Nugent Waterside Resort (their site/photos don't do it the justice it deserves) where we're staying while taking the International House CELTA Course and my thoughts are now primarily consumed with writing lesson plans and teaching class. It's a relief to be free of packing and unpacking and deliberating over where to go next and also to be so busy

Pics and an Update on Lat

2008-02-03T13:13:00.000+07:00

They didn't look too happy at first but they warmed up.These posted out of order but look at this train shot (about 19 hours into the Bangkok to Chiang Mai 20-hour journey that was five hours delayed). Doesn't the condensation look like snow? Makes me miss snowboarding.The above photos are a bit out of order but I wanted to prove I'm still here considering the absence of pics since Siem Reap.

The Ongoing Pursuit of Balance

2008-02-03T12:56:00.000+07:00

Am I the only one who has a most-everyday self and an altered metropolitan persona? Nevermind, probably. Anyhow, the reason I ask is that I’ve noticed that prior a stay of two days or more in a world class metropolis, aka lair of the pretty people, I'm who I like to believe to be my authentic self… all Zen (or at least a little Zen), normally goal-focused, spiritually motivated and focused on

It's the Little Things

2008-02-01T17:48:00.000+07:00

I'm back in Chiang Mai and again happily residing at Boonmee but it was an unanticipated surprise to find myself, purely by accident, back just in time for the first week of February’s Flower Festival, which will hopefully begin before I head about 30k south for my course on Sunday. It’s a flower festival, it has to be good, but why am I taking this course for the entire month of February again?

Oh Credulous Reader

2008-01-29T16:37:00.000+07:00

Those of you who honestly believe that I do in fact wonder whether I can be infected with an STD due to the consumption of the street food that I eat regularly don't know me very well and could plausibly benefit from weekly sessions incorporating humor therapy.Also, if you surmise that my gentle self-deprecation originates in any other place other than the inner core of solid confidence of a

Travel Confessions (Andrew will love this one)

2008-01-27T17:27:00.000+07:00

As truthful as it is that I’ve chosen this life, need this life, love this life, there are – “there have to be,” my friends say – things that are thorny about traversing this open road unaccompanied by anyone but the voice in my head. That is, about me in particular, at my age and with my personal neurosis, being out here alone. Thanks guys. Ok fine, since I’m hiding from Bangkok in my hotel

Sweet, the Open Road...Really

2008-01-25T12:15:00.000+07:00

I've been asked probably 200 times if I'm on Facebook (mainly by fellow travelers), and so I've finally succumb to the pressure and listed a profile. So far it seems preferable to My Space of which I'm not a fan.However, to all of the old college friends with whom I've become reacquainted through the site:I am single because I have unequivocally chosen to be so and am living exactly the

The Elusive Oriental

2008-01-24T14:13:00.000+07:00

Old habits die hard and, in combination with the acute stress of navigating Bangkok on my own from the hub of Sukhumvit Soi 4, I decided to splurge a bit for a few nights. I'm staying at Unico Grande Sathorn which is a 4-star boutique hotel. It's nice, but not fabulous. My inner aristocratic snob, who maintains her isolation from the part of me who will stay in a hostel dorm room (I believe I

Did I mention...

2008-01-22T13:26:00.000+07:00

...that I accidentally ended up staying on infamous Sukhumvit Soi 4, right in the middle of it? Anyone who knows me can picture my face every time I leave the hotel to walk down the street. The next time I come to Bangkok I'm booking a luxury hotel in advance. I just can't deal with it again. Oh well, at least the room itself is nice though I shudder to think what's likely gone on there.

Back in Overwhelming Bangkok

2008-01-22T09:04:00.000+07:00

Monks at Lolei Temple, AnkorThey always find a way to carry the little ones, not safely but creatively.I've accomplished what seems to be quite a feat in Bangkok: I had my hair cut and colored and it looks beautiful! I'd read all over the internet, and heard from everyone that I asked, that getting my hair done here was hair suicide. I think that the problem is that travelers, and even expats

The Temples of Angkor...

2008-01-19T10:16:00.000+07:00

A blind man and his companion at Ta Prohm. Bayon Banteay Srei Sunrise at Angkor Wat"...a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michael Angelo--might take its place beside our most beautiful buildings...grander than anything left to us by Greece and Rome."--Henri Mouhot, 1860We made it to Siem Reap and were provided tuk tuks to our guest houses and Dee, Angie and I headed for the

Si Phan Don and Into Cambodia

2008-01-19T08:58:00.001+07:00

The view from my bungalow on Don Det.Sweet little Lit. Khon Papaeng Falls.A typical Si Phan Don scene.One more crazy Songthaew ride under my belt, I made it to Ban Nakasang where I took a group boat to Don Khon by way of Don Det. There are three islands in Si Phan Don, which literally translates as “Four Thousand Islands,” which have developed an infrastructure for tourism: Don Khong which is

Two Days of Bliss on Don Daeng Island

2008-01-18T19:42:00.000+07:00

The children on Don Daeng running from school to greet me. The view across La Folie's pool and over the Mekong. The view from my La Folie bungalow's veranda at sunset. Numero uno in a new series of what I perceive to be deplorable self-portraits. This to please all of you complainers who whine that I'm not in any of my shots. I was trying to caputre the linga on Phu Kao mountain that I write of

All photos to date are finally uploaded!

2008-01-06T15:54:00.000+07:00

Don't buy a Dell.

2008-01-06T12:58:00.001+07:00

My primary reason for bringing a computer on the road was to do my graduate work but it's become a necessity to manage my photos as well. I tried to be smart about it: I bought a durable, lightweight, ultra-portable with as much damage coverage as was available. I decided to get a Dell because their rep assured me that I would find service locations in Asean and be able to have the same level of

Tha Khaek, Na Hin, Kong Lo, Savannakhet, Pakse...

2008-01-04T07:32:00.000+07:00

Lat decided that she is too afraid to drive the car and so I wasn’t able to offer my services as a driving instructor, which may be a good thing considering the frequent complaints on my driving. I think I’m a great driver but…hmmm… Nevertheless, by the time that I left she had decided to give her western guy one year to bring her and Derek to Arizona or to move to Thailand. I hope that teaching

Christmas in Nakhon Phanom

2007-12-26T10:49:00.000+07:00

After being advised by two of O’s closest friends - Keith and Lott, former monk, philosopher, philanthropist (I trust too easily but think I’m ok with this one) that, as fabulous as O is, he really can’t be trusted, I decided firmly but sadly, to refuse the job in LP. I’ve had some downtime as a result of the disappointment and subsequent diversions but I think that everything has evolved for the

What's the message?

2007-12-18T13:54:00.000+07:00

Every time that I think I’ve grown out of my persistent naivete - the product of an extremely sheltered and misguided upbringing (no offense mom, it's not your fault) in combination with my existing nature – I seem to receive some manner of wake up call. I believe that what we attract into our lives in the form of people, circumstances, and opportunities is as a result of what we’re sending out

Speaking of Proust

2007-12-17T09:42:00.000+07:00

"We don't receive wisdom; we must discover it for ourselves after a journey that no one can take for us or spare us."

Bewitching Luang Prabang

2007-12-17T08:17:00.000+07:00

One hard earned “A” (paid for in kip at the internet cafe) later, I’m finally able to give a more thorough update on the last...what has it been...two, three weeks? I have completely lost track of days and time in Laos which, aside from a stolen camera and some cash, and two unpleasant altercations with guest house workers who tried to charge me more than I owed,

Caffeine Facilitated Reality

2007-12-12T11:17:00.000+07:00

Nong Khiaw was stunning, Muang Ngoi was charming and unique (though infested with smelly backpackers), and the boat rides from Muang Ngoi to Luang Prabang was so full of beauty that it nearly brought me to tears; truly I’ll confess that it did bring me to tears at one point. (There are moments when I’m filled with the most perfect bliss since I’ve been on this trip, the kind of thing that only

First Week in Laos

2007-12-05T21:58:00.000+07:00

Once again I’m behind and, since I’ve been pretty long winded in some of my catch-up posts, I’ll try and keep this short. I’m in Nong Khiaw in Laos right now and it’s absolutely stunning. I was a bit teary right off the bus because it’s so lovely and my pictures don’t do it much justice. The fact that there has been something wrong with my camera lately doesn’t help

Last Few Days Before Laos and Cambodia

2007-11-27T13:41:00.000+07:00

The last four days have been relatively busy but I’ve slowed down on the site-seeing somewhat. On the 23rd Declan and I rented motor bikes and rode about 85k from Chiang Mai, up around Mae Rim Road to Samoeng Road (the same road I’d taken previously by taxi to Mae Sa Elephant Camp). It was beautiful scenery and it was fantastic to breathe clean mountain air. We

Temples, Elephants, Silk Weaving...Ramblings...

2007-11-23T13:14:00.000+07:00

I'm eating the best yellow curry I've found at my new favorite restaurant here in Chiang Mai (organic, msg/phong churat-free food from the Royal Project... run by a very sweet American/Thai couple) and thought I might catch up a bit. One of the disadvantages of blogging is that it requires the time and energy that I would normally devote to journaling but offers different benefits. It's fantastic

Window to the Dark Side

2007-11-21T10:18:00.000+07:00

I have a disturbing story for ya. The other night Declan went out with a couple of Irish guys, an American girl (not me, I have an early bedtime), and two Australian girls. It was well into the night and they found themselves at a bar where an older (maybe 55), western man was about to take a 12 year old prostitute home. Long story, but as it turns out the man is a regular (10 years in Thailand)

Flickr Saved Me

2007-11-20T00:45:00.000+07:00

From now on you can view some of my favorite photos here.I'll just keep adding albums there with a few posted to the blog. What relief to have this taken care of. Never use Kodak EasyShare.

Chiangmai Update

2007-11-19T14:44:00.001+07:00

I'm back at the Boonmee Mansion in a lovely room in their old teak home (the mansion, I assume) behind the main guest house. It's over 100 years old and has just been prepared for guests. Lovely! The Spicy Thai hostel, besides being a dorm setting (never again, if I can help it), was far away from most sights, including the old city entirely. The wifi was nice but, as I was spending a great deal

Hostel Living

2007-11-15T14:51:00.000+07:00

Sadly, I left my private room at the Boonmee Mansion this morning in search of accommodations with free wifi in the rooms, as it took all day yesterday for just 1/4 of my photos to upload! The owners, Sam and his wife, were so kind to me while I was there that it was tough to leave. They were so genuinely sweet and I felt safe there and not at all in danger of theft. It sort of had a family feel

Aging

2007-11-13T14:06:00.000+07:00

This photo uploading business if for the birds. How do you travelers do it?? Even after compressing everything to the lowest possible quality I'm still sitting here hours later. I'll never get all of them done today unless I locate better arrangements but don't worry, I'll persevere and hopefully find a faster connection, preferably for free as I'm supporting this cafe all on my own. While I'm

Photos tomorrow...

2007-11-12T22:40:00.000+07:00

...it's taking them too long to upload and I'm starving!

Catch Up!

2007-11-12T20:54:00.000+07:00

Sunday November 4Ok, so a little more about the night trip in Bangkok. Photos are still pending as Kat, one of our trip members has yet to get home and send them to me. I believe she’s in transit now. However, I wanted to write the names of some of the places that you’ll see in the photos. The area where the middle eastern restaurants and food stalls was is called Nana and Little Lebanon, the bar

One Night In Bangkok

2007-11-03T12:38:00.000+07:00

I am sitting in the restaurant of the Atlanta Hotel having a vegetarian curry. God, please don't let me get sick. I've been told that street food is the safest but I couldn't do it today! I will for dinner as it smells and looks fabulous and i'm getting braver by the minute.SO, I arrived yesterday evening and, after schlepping my junk (zillions of supplements, organic shampoos and whatnot, Aveda

Taipei Airport

2007-11-02T06:20:00.000+07:00

Is there something about traveling that automatically instills one with the desire to wear socks under sport sandles? I would never do this at home and yet I find it completely acceptable now. Horrors, this doesn't bode well either.I'd better not write much as I haven't recovered mentally (or physically...wow) from very difficult goodbyes in Denver. Also, I had hoped to sleep but there was a poor

Two days!

2007-10-29T21:51:00.000+07:00

In Gift From the Sea, Anne Morrow Lindbergh said, "Is there anything as horrible as starting on a trip? Once you're off, that's all right, but the last moments are earthquake and convulsion, and the feeling that you are a snail being pulled off your rock." Oh yes, I'm that snail. Here are a few photos from one of my going away gatherings...just family, my best friend Karen and my amazing little

countdown to my belated grande tour!

2007-09-10T03:28:00.000+07:00

i generally receive responses that fall into one of two categories when i tell someone that it's taken me about a decade to work up the courage but yes! i'm leaving to travel much of the world by myself (and with travel buddies i'm sure i'll meet along the way) for at least the next couple of years. about 20% of the responses fall into the category of what i call, "why the hell would you want to